FABRICS GLOSSARY
COMPOSITION
★ BLEND:
DESCRIPTION: A textile material made from two or more different fiber types combined within the same yarn, fabric or construction.
USE: Used to combine properties such as softness, durability, stretch, moisture management, appearance or cost efficiency.
WOVEN STRUCTURES & PATTERNS
★ PLAIN WEAVE:
DESCRIPTION: The simplest woven structure, in which each warp yarn alternates over and under each weft yarn.
USE: Used for shirting, linings, bedding, canvas and many lightweight to medium-weight woven fabrics.
★ TWILL WEAVE:
DESCRIPTION: A woven structure identified by diagonal lines formed by the staggered interlacing of warp and weft yarns.
USE: Used for denim, trousers, tailoring, jackets, workwear and outerwear where durability and drape are important.
★ SATIN WEAVE:
DESCRIPTION: A basic weave with longer yarn floats and fewer visible interlacings, creating a smooth and often lustrous surface.
USE: Used for dresses, eveningwear, blouses, linings, lingerie and decorative textiles.
★ JACQUARD:
DESCRIPTION: A weaving method that individually controls warp yarns to build complex patterns directly into the fabric structure.
USE: Used for patterned fashion fabrics, jackets, dresses, ties, upholstery and decorative textiles.
★ DOBBY WEAVE:
DESCRIPTION: A woven construction produced with a dobby mechanism, typically creating small repeated geometric or textured patterns.
USE: Used for shirting, blouses, dresses, table linens and decorative fabrics with subtle woven texture.
★ PILE WEAVE:
DESCRIPTION: A woven construction in which extra yarns form loops or cut ends that project from the fabric surface.
USE: Used to create velvet, corduroy, terry fabrics, upholstery and other soft or textured surfaces.
★ LENO WEAVE:
DESCRIPTION: An open woven structure in which pairs of warp yarns cross around the weft to help lock the yarns in place.
USE: Used for gauze, mesh, open decorative fabrics and technical textiles that need an open but stable construction.
★ BASKET WEAVE:
DESCRIPTION: A variation of plain weave in which two or more warp or weft yarns act together as a group, creating a basket-like texture.
USE: Used for Oxford-style shirting, casual apparel, furnishings and heavier decorative fabrics.
★ HERRINGBONE:
DESCRIPTION: A broken twill pattern in which the diagonal direction reverses at regular intervals to create a V-shaped or zigzag effect.
USE: Used for suits, coats, jackets, trousers, wool fabrics and interior textiles.
★ HOUNDSTOOTH:
DESCRIPTION: A two-colour broken-check pattern traditionally woven with contrasting warp and weft yarns, often on a twill base.
USE: Used for tailoring, suits, jackets, coats, skirts and accessories where a graphic woven pattern is desired.
★ SATEEN:
DESCRIPTION: A smooth, lustrous fabric made with a satin-type weave, typically using spun yarns such as cotton rather than filament yarns.
USE: Used for bedding, dresses, shirts and trousers where a smooth face and soft hand are desired.
★ OXFORD:
DESCRIPTION: A basket-like woven construction in which multiple warp yarns often work together against a heavier weft.
USE: Used primarily for durable, breathable shirting and casual shirts.
KNIT STRUCTURES
★ JERSEY KNIT:
DESCRIPTION: A basic single-knit structure with a smooth face, a different reverse side and natural crosswise stretch.
USE: Used for T-shirts, underwear, dresses, lightweight tops and many casual garments.
★ RIB KNIT:
DESCRIPTION: A knit structure with alternating knit and purl wales that creates vertical ribs and strong crosswise stretch and recovery.
USE: Used for collars, cuffs, waistbands, sweaters, fitted tops and close-fitting garments.
★ INTERLOCK KNIT:
DESCRIPTION: A stable double-knit structure formed by interlocking two rib structures, producing a similar appearance on both sides.
USE: Used for soft but structured tops, dresses, babywear, underwear and close-to-body garments.
★ TRICOT:
DESCRIPTION: A warp-knit fabric with fine vertical wales on the face and more visible crosswise ribs or loops on the back.
USE: Used for lingerie, swimwear, activewear, linings, footwear and technical applications.
★ PIQUÉ:
DESCRIPTION: A textured knit construction that creates small raised or recessed surface effects, often through combinations of knit and tuck stitches.
USE: Used for polo shirts, sportswear, casual tops and structured knit garments.
★ PONTE DI ROMA:
DESCRIPTION: A compact double-knit related to interlock, generally thicker, firmer and more stable than basic interlock.
USE: Used for trousers, dresses, skirts, jackets and structured stretch garments.
FABRIC TYPES
★ DENIM:
DESCRIPTION: A durable woven fabric traditionally made with indigo-dyed warp yarns and undyed or lighter weft yarns, usually in a 2/1 or 3/1 twill.
USE: Used for jeans, jackets, shirts, skirts, dresses, bags and workwear.
★ CANVAS:
DESCRIPTION: A strong, firm woven fabric, typically in plain weave and traditionally made from cotton, hemp or linen.
USE: Used for bags, workwear, shoes, tents, awnings, upholstery and artist canvas.
★ CHIFFON:
DESCRIPTION: A very lightweight, sheer woven fabric made from fine, highly twisted yarns, giving it an airy appearance and fluid drape.
USE: Used for dresses, blouses, scarves, veils, eveningwear and layered garments.
★ CHAMBRAY:
DESCRIPTION: A lightweight plain-weave fabric commonly made with a coloured warp and a white or lighter weft.
USE: Used for shirts, dresses, children's clothing, linings and lightweight casualwear.
★ POPLIN:
DESCRIPTION: A lightweight, tightly woven fabric with a smooth surface and a subtle crosswise rib created by its yarn or weave balance.
USE: Used for shirts, shirt dresses, blouses, summer garments, uniforms and lightweight outerwear.
★ VELVET:
DESCRIPTION: A soft pile fabric with a dense, evenly cut surface pile; traditional woven velvet is produced with an additional pile system.
USE: Used for eveningwear, dresses, jackets, accessories, upholstery and luxury interiors.
★ CORDUROY:
DESCRIPTION: A cut-pile fabric characterized by raised vertical ribs known as wales.
USE: Used for trousers, jackets, overshirts, skirts, children's clothing and casual outerwear.
★ FELT:
DESCRIPTION: A dense textile made by matting, compressing and bonding fibers together rather than by conventional weaving or knitting.
USE: Used for hats, accessories, padding, insulation, acoustic products, crafts and technical applications.
★ NONWOVEN FABRIC:
DESCRIPTION: An engineered fibrous sheet or web given structural integrity by mechanical, thermal or chemical bonding rather than weaving or knitting.
USE: Used for hygiene products, wipes, medical materials, filters, interlinings, insulation and technical textiles.
★ WOVEN FABRIC:
DESCRIPTION: A fabric formed by interlacing two yarn systems: lengthwise warp yarns and crosswise weft yarns.
USE: Used across shirting, tailoring, denim, outerwear, home textiles and many technical applications.
★ KNITTED FABRIC:
DESCRIPTION: A fabric formed by intermeshing yarn into loops rather than interlacing separate warp and weft systems.
USE: Used for T-shirts, sweaters, activewear, underwear and other products where comfort, flexibility or stretch are important.
★ CREPE:
DESCRIPTION: A fabric with a finely crinkled, grainy or pebbled surface created through yarn twist, fabric construction or finishing.
USE: Used for dresses, blouses, gowns and fluid fashion garments where surface texture and drape are important.
★ ORGANZA:
DESCRIPTION: A sheer, crisp and relatively stiff plain-weave fabric, traditionally associated with fine filament yarns.
USE: Used for eveningwear, bridalwear, overlays, neckwear and decorative trims.
★ TAFFETA:
DESCRIPTION: A crisp, smooth plain-weave fabric with a fine crosswise rib and a characteristic rustling hand.
USE: Used for dresses, eveningwear, linings, suits, bridalwear and trims.
★ GREIGE FABRIC:
DESCRIPTION: Unprepared fabric directly from weaving, knitting or nonwoven production before dyeing, printing or finishing.
USE: Used as the unfinished base material for subsequent preparation, coloration, printing and finishing processes.
★ COATED FABRIC:
DESCRIPTION: A textile with a continuous or partial coating applied to one or both surfaces to add protection, appearance or performance.
USE: Used for waterproof outerwear, bags, upholstery, protective products and technical or industrial applications.
★ LAMINATED FABRIC:
DESCRIPTION: A textile bonded to another fabric, film, membrane, foam or substrate to create a layered composite.
USE: Used in outerwear, footwear, bags, protective clothing and performance textiles that require combined properties.
DYEING, PRINTING & FINISHING
★ YARN-DYED:
DESCRIPTION: A coloration method in which yarn is dyed before it is woven or knitted into fabric.
USE: Used for stripes, checks, plaids, chambrays and other designs where colour is built into the fabric structure.
★ PIECE DYEING:
DESCRIPTION: A coloration method in which fabric is dyed after weaving or knitting but before it is cut and sewn into garments.
USE: Used for solid-colour fabrics when flexible shade selection and efficient fabric-level production are required.
★ GARMENT DYEING:
DESCRIPTION: A process in which a completed garment is dyed after cutting and sewing.
USE: Used for T-shirts, sweatshirts, casualwear and knitwear to create flexible colour ranges or washed, lived-in effects.
★ PRINTED FABRIC:
DESCRIPTION: Fabric decorated by selectively applying one or more colours in a design, motif or repeat pattern.
USE: Used across fashion, home textiles and technical products for graphics, motifs and all-over surface designs.
★ FINISH / FINISHING:
DESCRIPTION: A textile treatment applied after basic fabric formation to modify hand, appearance, surface character or performance.
USE: Used to add properties such as softness, wrinkle resistance, water repellency, lustre, texture or dimensional stability.
★ BRUSHED / BRUSHING:
DESCRIPTION: A mechanical surface-finishing process that lifts fibers from the fabric surface to create a softer or warmer hand.
USE: Used for shirting, fleece-like fabrics, blankets and casualwear where softness and insulation are desired.
★ NAPPED / NAPPING:
DESCRIPTION: A mechanical finishing process that raises surface fibers using rollers or wires to create a fuzzy layer.
USE: Used for flannel, blankets, outerwear and winter fabrics that require a soft, warm surface.
★ MERCERIZED / MERCERIZATION:
DESCRIPTION: A treatment used especially on cotton in which concentrated alkali swells the fiber and can improve lustre, strength and dye affinity.
USE: Used for premium cotton yarns and fabrics where brighter colour, smoother appearance and enhanced performance are desired.
★ DIGITAL PRINTING (TEXTILE):
DESCRIPTION: A non-contact printing process in which digital print heads deposit controlled droplets of colour directly onto the textile from a digital file.
USE: Used for complex designs, sampling, customisation, premium fabrics and shorter production runs.
★ SCREEN PRINTING:
DESCRIPTION: A printing process in which print paste is forced through the open areas of a patterned screen onto the fabric.
USE: Used for graphic prints, repeat patterns, fashion fabrics and home textiles, especially in medium to large production runs.
FABRIC CONSTRUCTION & LANGUAGE
★ WARP:
DESCRIPTION: The set of yarns running lengthwise in a woven fabric, generally parallel to the selvedge and held under tension during weaving.
USE: Used to define fabric direction, construction and cutting orientation in woven textiles.
★ WEFT:
DESCRIPTION: The yarns running across the width of a woven fabric and interlacing with the warp; also called filling yarns.
USE: Used with the warp to build woven structure and to define crosswise fabric direction.
★ SELVEDGE / SELVAGE:
DESCRIPTION: The finished lengthwise edge of a woven fabric, usually constructed differently from the main body to prevent fraying.
USE: Used as a reference for fabric direction, cutting, loom width and construction quality.
★ FABRIC GRAIN:
DESCRIPTION: The direction of yarns in a woven fabric, mainly lengthwise grain and crosswise grain.
USE: Used in pattern cutting and garment construction to control hang, stability, stretch and shape retention.
★ BIAS / BIAS CUT:
DESCRIPTION: The diagonal direction of a woven fabric; true bias runs at about 45° to the lengthwise and crosswise grain.
USE: Used in dresses, skirts and draped garments to create greater flexibility, fluidity and body-conforming movement.
★ THREAD COUNT:
DESCRIPTION: The number of warp and weft yarns within a stated area, commonly expressed as the total threads per square inch.
USE: Used mainly to specify woven fabrics such as bedding and fine cotton fabrics, alongside yarn size and fabric construction.
FABRIC PROPERTIES & MEASUREMENT
★ GSM (GRAMS PER SQUARE METRE):
DESCRIPTION: The mass of a fabric per unit area, expressed in grams per square metre (g/m²), and a standard indicator of fabric weight.
USE: Used to compare fabric weight and to help determine suitable end uses, construction choices and product specifications.
★ STRETCH / BI-STRETCH:
DESCRIPTION: Stretch describes how much a fabric elongates under tension; bi-stretch generally means stretch in two principal directions.
USE: Used to evaluate fabrics for fitted clothing, trousers, suiting, activewear and products that require comfort and freedom of movement.
★ HAND / HANDLE:
DESCRIPTION: The tactile impression of a textile when touched or handled, such as soft, smooth, crisp, dry, stiff or plush.
USE: Used by designers, buyers and mills to judge whether a fabric's feel is appropriate for the intended product.
★ COLORFASTNESS:
DESCRIPTION: The ability of a textile to resist unwanted colour change or colour transfer during exposure to washing, rubbing, light, perspiration or use.
USE: Used as a key quality measure for dyed and printed textiles, especially apparel, upholstery and performance products.
★ DRAPE:
DESCRIPTION: The way a fabric falls, hangs and forms folds under its own weight.
USE: Used when selecting fabrics for dresses, skirts, blouses, tailoring and other garments where silhouette and fluidity are important.